More vegetarian Old San Juan

Having managed to get a few days at the El Convento hotel in Old San Juan (again), we were faced with the usual “where’s good for veggie food, then?” search.

I’ve blogged previously about a unique, special meal prepared by Chef Rafael at the El Convento. Unfortunately, the timing of this trip is when the Patio Garden restaurant is not open in the evenings. However, some good news from elsewhere to report for veggies — one new to me, and one previously experienced.

Verde Mesa has been around a few years, though I’d never visited previously. Established as a pescatarian and vegetarian restaurant, it has latterly expanded to offer some meat dishes, though clearly retains its strong focus on fish and veggie cuisine.

Following one of their signature botanicals — a series of refreshing fruit and herb-based drinks that can be fortified with a spirit shot — I opted for the Bruschetta as a starter. Crisp sourdough was spread with a Kalamata olive paste, a hefty marmalade, and finished with a spattering of cheese. A rich and tasty opener.

Their Rice dish was a bit of a revelation.

The perfectly cooked rice was liberally infused with exquisitely small pieces of pepper, mushroom, carrot and caramelised onion (and could have included asparagus, which I opted out of). The seasoning of the dish was delivered mainly through cooking the rice in an excellent stock, the flavours of which came through robustly, without overpowering the dish. The accompanying smoked chick peas gave a taste and texture contrast, and the herby sauce poured over the rice added flavour, though personally I could have done with a little more of it.

All in all, a very satisfying evening’s veggie fare in a quirky, small restaurant.

Chef Peter Schintler’s Marmalade (where I have eaten before) takes vegetarian dining to another level. The restaurant itself has a modern open feel that is softened by careful lighting and sumptuous fittings meaning that, despite seeming to seat many people at a time, individual pairs or groups of diners can feel like they are having an intimate experience.

We opted for four courses, me going to the vegetarian menu, of course.

First up: Vegan Avocado Poke, which is all about balancing big flavour with the softness of avocado.

Pieces of tamari ginger and green tea-soaked pink grapefruit work with the avocado to provide the bulk of the texture, which is balanced with lemongrass, chilli, lime, black sesame seeds and other flavours to raise the avocado to zingy, refreshing heights. Paired with a Nigori sake, the dish and the wine complemented one another well, making the course greater than the sum of its parts.

Next I had the Vegan Pasteles, which seemed a continent away, flavourwise, from the Poke. I’d been intrigued as to how a yucca puree could “encase” a black bean and smoked pepper inner, but it was beautifully executed. The puree was lightly crisped to hold its shape and texture, and the warmth of the smoked peppers brought heat to the earthy flavour of the yucca and the bed of chilli con verduras, with its black bean sauce. A peppery Mourvedre wine again brought added depth to the dish.

My third savoury dish was a favourite from my previous visit — the Ancient Grain Gnocchi.

Resting on a bed of pureed butternut squash, the rich gnocchi were laced with a dinosaur kale and walnut pesto, bringing flavour, colour and crunch to the dish. The slivers of sweet roasted parsnips were an astonishing addition, both in conjunction with the gnocchi, but also tasted exquisite on their own. The lighter Pinot Noir served alongside paired well without overpowering the flavours of the plate.

Having glanced at the dessert menu in advance and thought I’d end with the cheese course, when the time came for dessert I reverted to the Vegan Pineapple Crisp: crispy warm pineapple, served with granola and vegan ice-cream. Whilst the pineapple and granola worked well together, it was the ice-cream that took the dish to another level; smooth and not-too-sweet, it melted into the dish without going all dairy on me. A sweet Muscat provided a rich accompaniment.

As I write this I realise that, unintentionally, I actually had a full vegan meal. If ever there was a meal to show doubters that vegan food can be complex, flavourful, filling, and delicious, it was this.

Five stars to Chef Peter and Marmalade — the care in the kitchen and front of house, along with superb, creative cookery, made for another excellent meal.